Tuesday, October 7, 2014

September in Review


September has come and gone, which means we have now been in Senegal a full year. In some ways, it feels like just yesterday that we arrived in Thies for training, clean and energetic and excited about all of the possibilities that lay ahead. In other ways, it’s hard to imagine that our life has changed so drastically in the span of just one year. Every day, we speak a foreign language and comfortably live and function immersed in a culture that is very different from our own. Our beliefs and ideas have been challenged, and in some cases, they have shifted. We have new family and friends and pets that we love dearly.  Whether we are in the mindset of the past year being a long one, or a short one, we can agree that it has been one of our best.

Twilight in the "front yard"
In addition to the past year having been a happy one, it’s also been productive! We have not only successfully learned Wolof and integrated into our community, but also managed to do some pretty cool agricultural work. What exactly have we accomplished, you ask? Here’s a summary:


In our small 6m x 9m demo garden, we effectively grew seven types of trees, seven species of perennial crop, and ten species (over 20 varieties) of annual crop.  We have implemented several water harvesting techniques (contour berm, french drain, use of robinet run-off, boomerang berms, etc), conservation cultivation methods (zai holes, manure tea), general gardening best practices (organic amendments, mulching, pepiñeering, composting, using all the layers, etc), and many agroforestry technologies (wind breaks, interspersed nitrogen fixing tree species, trees for dappled shade, fruit trees, live fence posts, trees for animal fodder, etc). We are currently giving away bundles of basil to lure people into the space to look around, and it’s been a big hit! The purpose of creating the demo garden was to (1) gain more credibility in our community, (2) to find motivated work partners, (3) to inspire community members to garden, and (4) to find personal gratification. So far, the demo garden has successfully accomplished goals 1 and 4. We’re hoping that as we move into the “cold season,” when people tend to garden more (the weather is nicer and the field crops have been harvested, so folks have time and money to spare), the demo garden will help us to find more motivated work partners in Guinguineo (goal 2) and to inspire others to create small, diversified gardens inside their compounds (goal 3).



Over the past 6 months, we conducted a series of trainings covering pepiñeering (creating a tree nursery), outplanting, and long-term care and protection of live fencing tree species, nitrogen fixing tree species, and fruit tree species, and improved ziziphus grafting with my counterpart, Mackiny Tall, and our 3 work partners in the village of Nguick. Here are the results: 4 pepiñeers created and maintained, 870 tree sacks filled, 616 viable seedlings germinated, 238 trees outplanted, and 820 seeds direct seeded. These numbers are relatively small for Peace Corps standards, but it’s a great start for a first year AgFo site like Guinguineo/Nguick, and we're proud of the progress we’ve made.


At the Master Farm in Sakagne, Peter and I function mostly in an advisory role, helping Cheikh to set goals and stay on track with his timeline and priorities. This season, Cheikh has outplanted over 550 trees on his farm, with the help of Peter and me, some community members, and his wives and children. In the past, tree survival rates after one year have been dismal, but we’re hoping for an improvement this year. We’re hoping to plan an Open Field Day, where community members can come see the demonstrations and technologies in action at Cheikh’s farm, in December. Inshallah, it will come to fruition.


This month I had the opportunity to attend a tree planting in our work zone-mate Tesia’s village (8 km away from Guinguineo). The event was an impressive collaboration between a Peace Corps volunteer (Tesia), CREATE! (an American NGO working near our area), and the local Guinguineo Eaux et Forets (like the U.S. Forestry Service) office. We talked about proper techniques for outplanting and caring for trees, and how to protect them until they reach maturity. It was inspiring to collaborate with partner organizations with similar goals, and I look forward to working with both CREATE! and Eaux et Forets again in the future.


The rainy season has been such a huge change, with plants blooming and occasional wildlife sightings (usually just hedgehogs and monitor lizards). We’d been hearing whispers of turtles that can be found in seasonal pools during this time of year, which seemed sort of unbelievable given the utter lack of water in this area 9-10 months out of the year. Because of this, I was fully expecting that these “turtles” people were talking about were in fact terrestrial tortoises that were seen cooling off in the shallow puddles, rather than actual aquatic turtles. After asking upwards of 5 people a day whether they had seen a turtle lately (Peter was a little embarrassed by this, and kept telling me people were going to think I was a weirdo…), I finally hit the jackpot with a shy 6-year-old neighbor of Peter’s counterpart. Bingo! Her family found the turtle in a puddle, and brought it home to keep it in a dirty bucket of water for good luck, a common practice here in Senegal.



Another interesting aspect of the rainy season has been the weather. Sure, it’s always exciting to witness a big weather event (provided that it doesn’t seriously damage your property or the infrastructure in your area). But in America, we always know it’s coming, often days in advance. In most of Senegal, you don't know until you see it. Remember that crazy sand storm that descended upon us in June? We didn’t know it was coming until we saw it rise up on the horizon. That’s the way it is. One hour the sky can be cloudless (as it was yesterday evening), and the next a huge storm rolls in, with thunder and lighting and wind like you’ve never seen before. I think of it as a metaphor for life in a developing country. Life is unpredictable, and you are at the mercy of your surroundings. We have the luxury to be able to enjoy and appreciate this part of our Peace Corps service, being that it is so different from the informed and premeditated American lifestyle. However, it's important to understand that it is difficult and often dangerous for those for whom it is the reality every day.


We wrapped up September by spending almost 2 weeks in Thies, helping to welcome and train the new Peace Corps Senegal 2014 Agriculture Stage. They seem like a great group, and it was an honor and a treat to be there for them for their first 10 days in Senegal. They will spend the next 10 weeks learning the ins and outs of how things work here in Senegal, in terms of Peace Corps administration, health, safety and security, language, and agricultural techniques. It will be a difficult but rewarding time, and I am excited for all that lies ahead for them. Their arrival means that we are now transitioning into the role of the 2nd year, or old, Ag Stage. I say transitioning, because the real 2nd year/old Ag Stage is still here; they will head home in mid-November, after they hand over their projects and responsibilities to the new Ag Stage, who will replace them in their towns and villages.



In September:

1.    The biggest challenge we faced: Being away from site for 2 weeks. Though it was rewarding to help with training, meet the new Trainees, and reflect on how far we’ve come, it’s hard to be away from site for so long. We’re now scrambling a bit to get the garden back into ship shape, and to chip away at our long list of to do’s- visiting fields and gardens of work partners, planning trainings, helping on the Master Farm, etc. Upholding Peace Corps commitments at site and elsewhere is a challenging balance to strike.


2.    The most exciting/best experience: Seeing our garden, and more importantly the farmers’ fields, finally blossom once the rains started in earnest in September.
3.    What we are most grateful for: Our demo garden space. In addition to boosting our credibility and confidence, tending to a beautiful green space that produces delicious fruits and vegetables is one of the most rewarding experiences in life. We are so grateful for our family’s support in converting the old trash pile to our garden space!
4.    Language factoid (by Peter): As in America, much of our laughter comes as a result of bodily emissions. This corporeal phenomenon has perhaps an even larger presence in our lives here due to the higher prevalence of GI tract issues.  In America, farts are generally referenced by using the word “fart” or simulating a fart noise with one’s mouth.  Here, creative onomatopoeia wins the day.  Even the “proper” word for fart, doxot (pronounced roughly “dough-hot,” with an aspirated h) sounds eerily similar to some styles of the emission it describes.  Other onomatopoeic words are barrrrt or parrrrrt (the repeated r meant to illustrate a very aggressively rolled r, beautifully mimicking a drawn-out butt gun) or pohhhhhhhh (basically just a p-sound followed by a slow exhale with one’s mouth in an O-shape, which uncannily imitates a silent, or barely audible variety.) 
 The other day, our youngest brother lovingly gifted us with a little fart while we were rough-housing outside.  I called him a doxotkat (adding –kat to any verb makes it a noun meaning, “person who does that verb.”)  Unfortunately, this made him embarrassed, which was not my intention, because as many of you know, I don’t view gas as an inherently shameful or bad thing. Fortunately, this opened the fart humor floodgates, and baay, displaying his great education, sharp wit, pun-y sense of humor, and knowledge that Papa Gorré might be able to conquer Europe with farts, all in one two-word phrase, called him Napoléon Bonaparrrrrrrt.
Fart humor is universal.

Things we’re looking forward to in October:

- Tabaski, or Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice or Greater Eid), one of the biggest Muslim religious holidays, which honors the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as an act of obedience to God. God intervened to provide him with a sheep to sacrifice instead, thus the tradition of sacrificing and eating a ram on Tabaski. Our “big sister” Caitlin is coming home from Dakar for the celebration, which will make it even sweeter!
- Harvesting even more vegetables from our garden, inshallah! We have more okra and greens than we can eat. We’re still waiting on the tomatoes, cucumbers and melons.
- Lots of agriculture work: leading a seed saving and treatment training in Guinguineo, a tree care and maintenance training in a neighboring village, a cold season gardening training with a local womens’ group, and lots of hours spent watering our garden now that the rains have pretty much stopped.
- Peter’s birthday! We’re hoping to spend a day or 2 in the mangroves to celebrate.
- A celebration for our Girls Camp and Michelle Sylvester Scholarship Program participants in Ndiago.


Jamm Rekk,
Kaitlin

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