We began our adventure in Dakar, where, after traveling for 15 hours, we were thrilled,
and GRATEFUL, to be met at the airport by Kait and Peter, and spirited off to
the charming ocean front Maison Abaka, for reconnecting with K & P, a
shower and sleep, and to await the arrival of Annah and Will. Our time in
Dakar, actually in Senegal, was a study in contrasts. First, for the animal
loving Hammersleys, we were delighted to meet the Maison Abaka menagerie.
“Basket”, the resident canine, entered our room upon our arrival, jumped on our
bed, and circled to make a cozy spot on our pillows. Ok, “Hello, Basket.” Good
thing we like dogs! Two cats, one of whom was determined to curl up in my
lap, knead and drool, and I mean, BIG time drool, (leaving a most attractive
large wet spot on my lap), an aggressive pelican, a monkey, and various
chickens all wandered the property and actually pretty much own the place. Phil
was intrigued with a construction project next door. Construction in
Senegal has a way to go, even in Dakar. And building codes, or more likely, the lack
thereof, would have even the most cavalier American engineer or construction
professional shuddering.
Outside the walls of Maison Abaka, packs of skinny feral
dogs roam amongst the rubble and dirty, emaciated, feral cats forage for food
alongside goats, cows, and donkeys. The state of the animals has been a huge
heartbreaker for Kait and oh, I can so see why! They were, for me, the hardest
part of the trip. The other surprise of Dakar for us was attractive walled
compounds with lush, green gardens and beautiful trailing fuschia bougainvillea,
alongside rubble strewn barren dirt lots with the occasional cow or goat
grazing on trash.
The residents of Dakar, as we found throughout Senegal,
were warm and humorous and pleased we were making the effort to greet them in
Wolof…..”Asalaam maalekum” (Peace be with you)… ”Maalekum salaam” (Peace be
with you, as well), “Nanga def?” (How are you?) “Maangiy fi rekk.” (I am
fine, I am here.) Everyone pretty much assumed we were French.
Senegal is not a hotspot for American tourism.
Annah and Will arrived without incident and we six,
along with Kait and Peter’s darling 23 year old cousin, Ndiaye Sene, headed off
to Guinguinéo, their town. What
we are, hands down, most GRATEFUL for is Kait and Peter’s host family, the Diops!
Baay and Yaay Diop and their children, Ouli, Soda, Fallou, and Papa
Gorre welcomed us with open arms and hearts and hospitality of the highest
order. Kait and Peter’s experience in Senegal, without this loving family,
would be entirely different. Baay is part philosopher, part spiritual leader, and
part community activist. Yaay works from dawn to well past dusk, exudes love
and warmth, and is so very beautiful inside and out. Ouli and Soda love to
dance, cuddle, and draw. We had a great dance off. The boys, Fallou and
Papa Gorre, especially enjoyed soccer games with Will and ALWAYS love being
thrown about by Peter. As Baay said, “Idi (Peter) is the only one who
always likes Papa Gorre (age 4) and who Papa Gorre always likes.”
Kait and Peter secured housing for Annah, Will, Phil,
and me, at a girls’ school right down the street. We were very
GRATEFUL to have western toilets (yes, we are admittedly particular when
it comes to toilets) and a little less enthusiastic about the lack of sheets,
blankets, pillows and towels. We survived quite nicely, however, and I have to
say, upon coming home, we have appreciated our cozy bed and bathroom as never,
ever, before!
Honestly, our biggest reservation about visiting Guinguinéo
was not wanting to commit any grave faux pas or making the family uncomfortable
in any way. Unless there were violations we were unaware of, I passed,
and, we THINK Phil passed. The Diop family is so incredibly loving, generous,
and kind to Kait and Peter and we hope we adequately showed our gratitude and
respect for all their hospitality.
Those of you who have followed Kait and Peter’s blog
know about the challenges of being left handed in Senegal. The left hand,
or as Peter, my dear left-handed son-in-law, calls it, “the devil poo hand,” is
not considered clean and it is considered rude to touch anyone with your left
hand. With the lack of toilet paper, one can understand why. For Phil and
me, BOTH left handers, we knew this would be a challenge. To those of you who
are snickering, I offer the following challenge. STOP using your dominant hand
for ANYTHING for 10 days. Hmmmm, not so easy, is it? Phil did do a “poo
hand beignet grab” in Nguick and was immediately reminded by both Kait and
Peter.
While in Guinguinéo we had lots of great informal time
with the Diop family to talk and visit, dance (we always like to dance!), to
get to know one another, and to eat. Meals were served sitting on a
cement slab around a communal bowl. Men could sit however they wanted and the
women sat “mermaid” style on the floor. Well, dear friends, there is left
handed mermaid style and right-handed mermaid style depending on your
handedness. I, therefore, had to sit “right handed” mermaid style in
order to eat with my right hand. This most likely sounds whiney and trivial
but I assure you it is not easy as a left-hander to sit right handed mermaid
style on a cement slab, for over an hour, eating with your non-dominant hand.
Go ahead, try it! The second afternoon they gave both Phil and me little
low stools to sit on. Do you think we looked awkward the day before???? I
wonder if they offered the stools after witnessing me stand up, the day before,
and have a half-cup of rice fall from the folds of my shirt. Phil was flawless
in all of this, in his mind, anyway.
Yaay and Baay made a huge effort with our meals.
Normally everything they eat is purchased at the local market. However, for our
special feast, Baay traveled to Kaolack, the regional capital, to secure fresh
barracuda and Yaay stuffed them with herbs and served them with vegetables and
rice. Delicious! The second day she served chicken with onion sauce and
rice, which was equally yummy. It is no small feat to create a delicious
lunch for a big crowd, as Yaay prepares all the meals over a wood fire.
Speaking of the market, our tour around the Guinguinéo market
was quite the experience. Winding through dirt back alleys, people sell
grains (mostly millet and rice), dried fish, seasonal fruits and vegetables,
meat (not refrigerated), nuts, cloth and an array of other products. Kait
introduced us to the vendors she knows and frequents. They were all friendly,
greeted us warmly, and got a big kick out of us greeting them back in
Wolof.
One of our most special times in Senegal was a morning
spent with Baay discussing politics, spirituality, religion, and world affairs.
Three hours, mostly in French with a little English and some Wolof thrown in.
Thank you to my 5th and 6th grade French teacher, Monsieur Lecarme, my French
teachers at Lawrence Academy, and my professors at Middlebury. After 35+
years of not speaking any French, I was somehow able to dig deep and bring
enough of it back to express our views, and translate Baay’s. I was most
GRATEFUL to be able to pull that one off. Baay’s perspectives were intuitive
and fascinating. He made us feel as though no subject was off limits. When
asked about all the extremist violence from ISIS to Boko Haram, he simply said,
“When you are born and raised in war and hatred, that is what is in your blood.
That behavior is not founded in Islam.” Baay spoke with reverence and
respect about Ghandi. For Baay, it seemed to be all about love and one’s
personal spiritual beliefs. He said there are two levels of peace and
love. One is the transcendental (connection with your spirit) and the second is
family and community. It was unexpected, on our part, to be sitting in a room
in Senegal discussing such deep and meaningful subjects in 3 different
languages.
My mother, Weezie Copeland Maeder Fowler, penned a
letter to Baay’s mother thanking her for the hospitality that the family had
shown to Kait and Peter and saying how much it meant to her. A letter
from the matriarch of my family to the matriarch of his. Baay said that
with all the Peace Corps volunteers who had lived with them over the years, no
one had ever done that before. He was very touched. Way to go, Weezie!
Phil's sister, Janet, contributed to our presents for
the family by making beautiful bracelets for everyone. They were a huge
hit-even with the boys, Fallou and Papa Gorre.
Thank you Janet!
Another highlight of our trip was a visit to Kait’s
worksite, the village of Nguick. To get there, you must travel around 40
minutes by “charette,” an open sided wooden cart with a driver, pulled by a
horse. We had a minor mishap when, halfway there, the tire blew. So…we
were 6 Americans, our Senegalese driver, and a young man who needed a ride, on
a deep sand road, no civilization anywhere in sight, in 100 degree weather,
with not a lot of options as far as Phil and I could see. Thankfully, a driver
appeared, coming from the opposite direction, headed back to Guinguinéo, and
Kait was able to negotiate a fare for him to turn around and bring us to Nguick.
I think perhaps she was a tad annoyed with us as we said rather forcefully to
her, “Pay him whatever he wants!!! ‘ Kait and Peter are very frugal and
very much try to live on the meager stipend afforded them by Peace Corps. They
reminded us, multiple times, that after we left, they would be in Senegal
another 10 months and it was important not to overpay for anything as that set
a precedent. Our new driver, convinced to alter his course and take us
back to where he came from, set out with great zeal and the poor horse was
forced to canter through the sand as we held on for dear life. I was
fairly certain I would be thrown off and actually made a plan to land on my
right arm and break it, rather than my left. It would have resulted in an issue
eating in Senegal but I was thinking of our return to the USA.
Once in the rural village of Nguick, we met Kaitlin’s official
Peace Corps-assigned counterpart (probably also her best friend in Senegal, she
said, except for Peter, of course), Mackiny Tall. Mackiny is a 55+ year
old gentleman who Kait works with on tree planting projects in and around
Nguick. He spoke of Kait with such respect and gratitude and said that if she
left tomorrow, she had made a huge and lasting
contribution. It touched us deeply. Together they are creating tree
nurseries and outplanting seedlings in family compounds and agricultural fields,
grafting for better fruit production, experimenting with integrated pest
management solutions (mostly natural alternatives to expensive chemical
products), planting live fences to protect fields from roaming livestock and
children, and extending these best practices to other farmers. Kait works with a
group of male farmers, and Mackiny Tall said, she “works as hard in the fields
as any man.”
One thing to note, when viewing photos, is that, in
Senegal, having your picture taken is serious business. Because of that,
especially then men, will most often have very somber expressions. Their faces,
in the photos, appear so stern and almost cold, NOT AT ALL how they actually
are in conversation and person.
The women of Nguick, as throughout Senegal, were just
beautiful. We happened to be there on the eve of a “Naming Ceremony” of a
newborn in a neighboring village and were able to see the women all dressed in
their finery for this special occasion. They asked for me to be in a
photo with them and I was in awe that these women, without hot water, and with
laundry facilities consisting of large plastic tubs, were able to put
themselves together in such a stunning fashion statement. They are
gorgeous!
One of my very favorite moments of our trip happened in
Nguick. Annah and Will were seated in the circle of men, along with us,
listening to discussions of the crops and planting and all the projects Kait
and Peter and Mackiny Tall are working on. The women and children moved quietly
about the periphery. A group of children were very curious about this
group of “Toubabs” (foreigners) and began gathering behind Annah. She
quietly took out Will’s iPhone and began shooting a video of them over her
shoulder. Suddenly, the children realized saw themselves in real time on
the iPhone screen and became extremely animated. Ten children became 15,
became 20, became 25, as they realized they were being recorded. The pure
joy, excitement, and glee, in their eyes and body language, was unimaginably
sweet! Annah and Will got as big of a kick out of it as the kids.
Saying goodbye to the Diop family was so much harder
than I had imagined it would be. What I know for sure is that, had Kait
and Peter been placed with a different family, they would have had a vastly
different experience. Love is love, no matter the language, no matter the
country. The Diop family has showered Kait and Peter with love and support and
family structure, humor and insight, knowledge and tradition, and a home away
from home. Ouli, Soda, Fallou and Papa Gorre have provided fun and levity and
lots of opportunities for roughhousing and snuggling, games, dancing, and
practice parenting. They all have, despite there being major
cultural barriers to keeping animals as pets (as in, most Senegalse think dogs
and cats are dirty, and don’t keep them as pets), welcomed and adjusted to
Happy Cat, Lady Obama, and Greta. Kait and Peter can do without hot
water, toilet paper, a western bathroom, and comfort food, but they really did
not want to do without, what in the West, brings many of us immeasurable
pleasure and comfort and joy… pets.
Following our memorable time in Guinguinéo we headed to
the town of Toubacouta, nestled in Senegal’s vast mangrove delta, a 3 hour
drive away. The delta is a World Heritage Site, so named because of its
cultural and environmental significance due to its ancient civilizations and
very important fishery. We drove there in a “Sept Place”, a 7 passenger station
wagon decked out with a fur trimmed dashboard. Dame, a friend of Kait and
Peter’s, and our driver, somehow managed to get us there without any incidents,
avoiding the goats and cows that roam freely alongside cars and charettes on a
dusty, unpaved road.
Toubaouta was a delightful spot to refresh and regroup.
Hot water, yahoo! Familiar food, yahoo! A swimming pool, yahoo! Cozy beds with
sheets and pillows, yahoo! A bar, double yahoo! We were feeling GRATEFUL! The
scenery was peaceful and calm, and the mangrove delta provided a beautiful
backdrop. Phil, Peter, and Will had a fun fishing adventure with a chain
smoking character Frenchman as Captain, while we girls had an opportunity to
relax and just be with each other.
My favorite Toubacouta excursion was a leisurely boat
ride with Kait and Peter’s friend, Ibou. We explored Shell Island and Bird
Island and experienced a stunning and stately baobab tree. Ibou got us up close
and personal with dozens of beautiful birds and scurrying monkeys. It was so
incredibly peaceful out on the water and reminded us all of elements of Florida
(the mangroves) and Maine (the pure quiet and serenity.) There is absolutely
nothing in this world like a sunset over the water to remind us of the presence
and power of Spirit.
Our drive back to Dakar was looooooong (7 hours) and
included a very interesting ferry ride. Kait and Peter instructed us to
immediately put on life preservers (there weren’t quite enough for all of the
people on the ferry) and to remain alert. If the ferry started sinking we
were to quickly swim fast and furiously away and try and keep other passengers
from pulling us under. Okay, not my most relaxing time on the water!
We safely made it back to Dakar and Maison Abaka in time
for a warm shower, some snuggles with “Basket” the dog and the drooling cat, rest,
and take out pizza (available even in Dakar, Senegal), before heading to the
airport for our flight home. It was hard, I must say, to leave, Kait and Peter,
knowing we would not see them for another 9 months.
Finally, what we are GRATEFUL for, most of all, is that
we were able to go on this adventure with the people we most love in this
world! Kait and Peter were just phenomenal hosts, taking care of every detail
from haggling to transportation, from meals to money matters, from translating
to respectful reminders (Mom, you have to keep your legs covered! Dad, don’t
reach for a beignet with your “devil poo hand!” Annah and Will, simmer down
with the PDA!). They made such a huge effort to help us understand the
Senegalese culture and experience the essence of this country they call
home. We got to see it through their eyes and to understand their respect
and love for the Diop family. Phil was an incredibly good sport and whined very
little about his back, in spite of some challenging mattresses (his description
was a slab of granite with a thin layer of fabric on top), and some car rides
that were roller coaster bumpy. Annah and Will ditched their New York City
ways and were game for absolutely everything and complained not one time.
Asalaam maalekum. Peace be with you. It is said around
the world, in so many languages and cultures. It is a beautiful reminder of
what we all want, what we strive for in our lives, in our communities, in our
countries.
Asalaam maalekum. Peace be with you.
Sue and Phil
Interesting random thoughts, ideas, and discussions that
Kait and Peter’s cousins Pape Sangone Sene (25 years) and Ndiaye Sene (23
years), shared with us… (slightly modified/clarified/fleshed out by P&K)
(Those of you who made fun of me for having a notebook
and pen with me at dinner may now apologize.)
In Senegal, the collective, the common good, is more
important than the individual. In America, it’s all about the individual. Meal style is an apt metaphor: In Senegal- one
bowl for all to share, in America- each has her own plate. Each can learn from the other. We, as
Americans, could learn from Senegalese about the collective. Senegalese
could learn from us, about the individual.
One of the roles of Peace Corps is to show the people of
other nations that the America they have seen in movies and on television is
not the real America. Pape Sangone loves
House of Cards, but because of the
PCVs in his life, he knows Americans aren’t just a bunch of Frank/Claire
Underwoods.
“Greetings” allow you to walk in to a business, a
private home, a school, with a formula, a set thing, that allows you to feel
comfortable whether speaking to the mayor or a child on the street. Greeting is appropriate and even
necessary. Greetings are a social
lubricant that allow you to go anywhere you want to go. It is a wonderful way to acknowledge that you
SEE people. They are human. You
are human.
In Senegal, if you can pay, you get to decide what you
study in university. If you can’t pay, the government decides what you will
study based on your test scores.
“Teranga” which basically means “hospitality” is the
word that most closely defines the ethos of Senegal. It’s more than hospitality as we know
it. It means that if you were biking
through a random town at dusk, and got a flat tire, you could knock on any door
and be offered dinner, a conversation, and a bed (probably the nicest bed in
the house) for the night. The name of
the Senegalese national football team is the Teranga Lions.. It speaks to the
collective. Is America’s national team called the Bootstrap Self-Pulling
Uncle Sams? If not, it should be. Or the Rabidly Individualistic Bald Eagles.
In Senegal, there are many challenges but loneliness and
isolation are not on the list.
The United States had a village mentality 150 years ago.
We have moved away from it now. Family, in Senegal, is “one!” They told of a
woman who showed up to their house after a fight with her husband and she was
offered shelter, food, a home for a few days, until she was ready to go back
home. However, this culture-defining dynamic is rapidly breaking down in big
cities, and as young people become more and more influenced by glitzy individualistic
Western culture. Akon is the most famous
Senegalese, and he didn’t get to where he is by sharing everything he had…
In pondering challenges…”It just is.”
In sharing dreams, “It gives me courage.”
What advice did these young people have to share?
To live by the Golden Rule. To work hard. To be the king of your dreams. Whether you believe you can or you can not, either way you are right.
To live by the Golden Rule. To work hard. To be the king of your dreams. Whether you believe you can or you can not, either way you are right.
“The exchange of ideas is so important to learn
something new.”
“Yes it is!! “(That one is from me, Susannah Maeder
Hammersley)
